The Ibrahimi mosque, built over Abraham's tomb, is like a microcosm of the entire Arab-Israeli conflict. In 1994, Baruck Goldstein, a US-born settler, killed 29 Palestinians praying inside the mosque during the Muslim holy month of Ramadam. When it reopened eight months later, it had been divided in two, a mosque and a synagogue. Now, to get in, you pass through metal detectors and a body search. It doesn't feel like one of the holiest places to two world religions.

The settlers say they are just reclaiming what used to be theirs -- property belonging to Hebron's old Jewish community. Jews sought refuge in Hebron from the Spanish inquisition and lived there peacefully for several hundred years. But the community was attacked during the first Arab uprising against Zionist immigration and British rule in 1929. Sixty-nine Jews were murdered and the remaining 2000 left.

Descendants of the old Jewish community have called publicly for the settlers to be removed, saying they set a dangerous precedent. Palestinian refugees are not allowed to go back to their homes inside what is now Israel, they say, so why should Israelis be allowed to claim property outside of Israel which used to belong to them?

Their calls seem to be falling on deaf ears. In April, defence minister Benjamin Ben- Eliezer allowed seven caravans which make up the fifth settlement block to be replaced by permanent structures. The takeover of Hebron is continuing house by house.

Jessica McCallin for The Sunday Herald of Scotland: http://www.sundayherald.com