We stopped to decide where to go next and found ourselves in front of an accumulation of curious children. Felicity waved at one - a tiny one in his sister's arms - and he started to cry. I knelt on the ground and said "Marhaba" (hello) and one or two replied, "Hello." The crowd grew and I did what I do best - I pulled a face. All the kids laughed, so I pulled another. Their mothers began to join the cluster: stunning women with enormous dark eyes.

"Ismi Joanna," I said - my name is Joanna.

"Shwanna," the kids repeated, and went through all their names: Maha, Zaineb, Treibe, dozens and dozens of them, and this one is that one's sister and that one is this one's brother, and these two are cousins, and as the introductions went on the huddle grew closer and the tickle monster urge took me. Assuming a fearsome look, I growled and made a tickle monster grab for one. Shrieking gleefully they all jumped back and, giggling, advanced again.

"Rrrr," I said, and they all squealed again.

Shortly a couple of guards came down and suggested we leave, which we supposed we'd better, so we waved to the kids, said "Ma'assalama" (goodbye) and walked away. The group which accompanied us grew and grew, though the guards told them to go back, and soon the whole party had reassembled by Zaid's taxi.